# Retinoid, Retinol, Retinal, Retinoic Acids

**Published by:** [jelca thinks](https://paragraph.com/@jess/)
**Published on:** 2022-08-30
**Categories:** health
**URL:** https://paragraph.com/@jess/retinols

## Content

Retinoid is an umbrella term aka the class It is a derivative of Vitamin A and is actually a very well researched ingredient that has recently become rather trendy. Best to understand before diving in…OverviewBenefits:acne treatmentboost collagen productionstimulates faster cell turnoverminimize fine lines and wrinkleseven out skin toneCommon Side Effects:irritation (redness, peeling, dry skin)purgingincreased skin sensitivityDo I Need It?Heavily consider if you have acnewas originally intended for acne treatment and proven to be extremely effectiveIf you do not have acne and just want for anti aging…NOT necessary and some to do not tolerate welldefinitely a much stronger ingredient for achieving desired results thoughTL;DR: your choice 😊When to NOT use:pregnantbreastfeedingallergiesBullshit Myths:it thins out your skinit actually thickens ityou can’t use it during the summeryou can use it all year round, with moisturizing and sun protectionyou need to wash it off in the morningjust not trueyou cannot use retinoid if you have redness / rosaceaoften helps those with rosaceapurging over 4-6 weeks is normalpurging is actually not normal unless you’re using too much and too often! Some irritation is normalif you have increased acne it should not last over 4-6 weeks or that is just plain irritationThe Conversion Process of Retinoids💡 Retinol Esters —> Retinol —> retinaldehyde (Retinal) —> Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin) Least potent and irritating, to most potent and prescription1️⃣Retinol EstersLeast to Most EffectiveRetinyl AcetateLeast effectiveRetinyl PalmitateControversialRetinyl Propionate0.3% Retinyl Propionate = 0.15% Retinol (according to a study)2️⃣RetinolNot active, needs to be converted to activeRequire 2 step conversion to become retinoic acidMuch evidence for anti aging and improving photo damaged skin,10-20x less potent than retinoic acidCosmetic, not FDA regulated to demonstrate uptake / stabilityConsistent use of retinol has been proven to have similar effects as tretinoin Sample Products Usually comes 0.3%, 0.5%, 1.0%Loreal Revitalift - 0.3%First Aid Beauty Retinol Serum - 0.25% has oatmeal, ceramidesThe Ordinary 1% Squalane - retinols love oil, might not leave to want to go into your skinCerave Resurfacing Retinol - unclear percentage, has licorice root extract and niacinamide to help with discoloration, hyperpigmentation, and red marksAlastin - funky smell3️⃣Retinalonly requires 1 step to become retinoic acidusually slow release delivery / less irritatingSample ProductsAvene Retrinal for Eyes4️⃣Retinoic Acid / Tretinoinprescription strength“holy grail”Go to a dermatologist to getOften not covered by insurance UNLESS it is for acne treatment purposes, anti aging and prevention is usually not coveredSample Products:Altreno - lotion base, elegant formulaApostrophe, Curology, AgencyDermatologist5️⃣Other FormsRetinoic Acid Esterget converted into retinol AND retinoic acidimmediate and delayed effectComes in 2 forms:Retinyl retinoate and Granactive (hydroxypinacolone retinoate)Granactive is the trade name for hydroxypinacolone retinoateif you are marketed 2% granactive, that is only 0.2% hydroxypinacolone retinoateSample ProductsGranactive retinoid by The OrdinaryInkey List RetinolSynthetic RetinolsAdapalene (differin) - OTCbetter for acnemore irritatingdata is quite strong for improving sun spotsTazorac - Rxbetter for psoriasisHow to Introduce with minimal irritation?Product ChoiceTry Esters first, and then try moving towards retinols and retinoic acidsthey are the least irritating and require several steps of conversion before becoming activeGo to a dermatologist or Curology/Agency/Apostrophe for a low concentration retinoid from a professionalChanges to make to your routineFocus on hydration and simple skincareCicaplast Baume by La Roche Posay is EXCELLENTSun protection ALWAYS in the morningyour skin will become more sensitivesunscreen should be used daily regardlessStop using acids when trying retinoid products at first, and then slowly introduce if you are comfortableEspecially in the same routine, avoid using acids as it can increase sensitivity and cause irritationThis includes salicylic acid, glycolic acid, AHA / BHA, Vitamin C, Ascorbic AcidUse over moisturizer or try “sandwich method”Complete full skincare routine at night including moisturizerPut retinoid on topPut another layer of moisturizerFrequency, When to Use in Your RoutineUse only at nightMost break down in the sunTry once a week, then twice a week, then slowly graduate to multiple times a weekIt is okay if you stick with a lower frequency for a long period of timeUse it when your skin is DRYthis often means waiting for your skin to dry post-moisturizer or cleanser before applyinga watery base will increase the chances of irritationHow Much to UseUse a pea-sized amount - LESS IS MOREWhere do you use retinoids?Avoid eye area, sides of nose, and mouth areaProtect eyes with some vaseline first (use carefully if you are prone to milia) to prevent migration and stingingAvoid neck area as it can be sensitive for manytry retinol based neck creams insteadtotally okay to use on back and chestKey to SuccessCONSISTENCY AND PATIENCENot using too frequently and too much

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