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If you just recited 'The Sign of the Cross' prayer from memory, then you must have been a cute little church student who is now well-versed in symbolism.

Then again, it is without a doubt a prevalent symbol that bombards us here in the West - the Holy Cross. Ranging from both the historical and cultural significance of crosses to their deep-rooted symbolism in various religions and belief systems crosses hold a very special place in our collective psyche.

The Holy Cross is so important in Western culture that many people might recognize it, even if they do not necessarily know what it symbolically represents. Interestingly, the meaning of the cross varies depending on whom you ask.

For example, for Roman Catholics, the Holy Cross represents the crucifixion of Jesus Christ and is a central symbol of their faith. They focus on the cross with the figure of Jesus on it to constantly remind themselves of his redemption for humanity's sins. While Evangelical Christians may also focus on the empty cross as an important symbolic representation of Jesus' victory over death and sin, alongside the hope and new life that believers have through him.

Now, if we dare to venture even deeper down the rabbit hole, and go far beyond the Christian cross, we will discover that there are so many other types of crosses! For example, there's the Inverted Cross, Psychic Cross, Orthodox Cross, the Caravaca Cross, and the Ankh, just to name a few.

Perhaps not unsurprisingly, the majority of the crosses I came across in collections were the Holy Cross, however, I did manage to find some examples of others. I hope you enjoy this article as much as I did writing it. Here you go:

• Dilara Findikoglu: Anhk ☥

Dilara’s inspiration for her Fall 2017 collection was said to be the "New World Order," representing the destruction of the old world and the creation of a new one. The entire collection is filled with Victorian silhouettes and significant "occult symbolism," which is reminiscent of Freemasonry in terms of aesthetics.

In this case, we will be focusing on the ankh, featured prominently in one of the looks. The ankh is a well-known symbol that originated in Ancient Egypt (Note: Freemasonry does borrow symbolism from Ancient Egypt). It is considered to be the first and original cross, with other crosses derived from it. (2) It is also known as the "key of life," which is an intriguing point to consider in relation to the "destruction of an old world but creation of the new" aspect of this collection.

• Yang Li x Genesis Breyer P-Orridge: Psychic Cross 丰

Yang Li integrates his musical influences into his unique artistic approach to fashion, making the collaboration with the infamous Genesis Breyer P-orridge a perfect fit.

Apart from music, Genesis Breyer P-Orridge was well known for their involvement in occult and esoteric practices, most notably their interest in chaos magick and the development of the concept of "pandrogeny", a philosophical and artistic exploration of gender as a fluid and mutable concept.

Yang's took deep inspiration from Gen's logos and slogans. The iconic Psychick Cross symbol took a prominent role in the collaboration, representing their shared vision.

Yang took deep inspiration from Gen's logos and slogans. The iconic Psychick Cross symbol took a prominent role in the collaboration, representing their shared vision.

link in proportions ov 2 and 3. (1)

The desired ratio of the cross is intended to be 2 to 3, meaning that if the vertical line measures 3 inches in length, the two larger intersecting lines at the top and bottom should each measure 2 inches, while the smaller intersecting line in the center should measure two-thirds of 2 inches. Why is 23 such an important number? Well, that's a different conversation for a different article in the future.

• Schiaparelli: Holy Cross ✟

The heavens [is] a place to escape from the chaos of our planet (6)

- Daniel Roseberry, Creative Director of the brand

Most articles mentioned that this show has sci-fi and surrealistic inspirations. However, when I came across the quote above in his show notes, I knew this was the missing piece of the puzzle.

The overall collection exudes a regal and heavenly vibe, with a touch of divinity. I am particularly drawn in by the silhouette, which I think is just so precious! It's like a halo on top, and with those cylinder-like arm accents that look almost like wings, ready to whisk you away to the heavens.

While it's uncertain if Daniel incorporated any of his personal religious beliefs into the collection, its striking beauty remains undeniable, as always.

• Vivienne Westwood: Inverted Cross 𐕣

Well, before we delve into the history of the inverted cross, let's address the elephant in the room. Based on my research, I don't believe Vivienne intended to glamorize the swastika symbol at all. When asked if she regretted having the swastika on the Destroy shirt, Vivienne responded, quite clearly

No, I don't, because we were just saying to the older generation, 'We don't accept your values or your taboos, and you're all fascists. (5)

Additionally, considering that she was a part of the punk movement, it is plausible to view it as a fashion statement aimed at condemning fascism.

The inverted cross has received a negative connotation, in part due to its portrayal in horror movies such as The Conjuring, Rosemary's Baby, The Devil Inside, and The Amityville Horror, where it has been depicted as something evil.

However, long before these movies graced the theaters, the symbol was widely known as the Cross of Saint Peter or the Petrine Cross. In a true display of Catholic guilt, Saint Peter is said to have felt unworthy to be crucified in the same manner as Jesus, so he requested to be crucified upside down. Interestingly, the Petrine Cross is also associated with the papacy, reflecting the Catholic belief that the pope is the successor of Peter as the bishop of Rome. This is why you may see the Pope sitting on a throne with an upside-down cross carved into it. (5)

Bonus: Two more High Fashion Moments with Cross Motifs

• Thom Browne: Upright and Inverted Crosses

Fun detail: I also noticed an inverted cross on the door of the presentation venue, and to the best of my knowledge, the crosses were added for decorative purposes.

• Mowalola: Holy Cross

  It was quite interesting that the collection was filled with various cross motifs, ranging from masks to full-cover robes, considering that she dubbed it "Burglarwear". (7)

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To sum up, the use of religious crosses in fashion and design often carries significant symbolism and cultural references. From the ancient Egyptian ankh to the Christian cross, these symbols have been used throughout history to represent various beliefs, ideologies, and concepts.

Whether it's borrowing from Freemasonry, exploring occult symbolism, or referencing historical eras, crosses remain powerful and meaningful icons that will continue to captivate and inspire fashion designers. The use of crosses in fashion serves as a reminder of the enduring influence of religious symbolism in our contemporary world.

丰 Thank you to my mentors and muse 丰

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Sources

1. Breyer P-Orridge, G. (2009). Psychic Bible. Feral House.

2. National Park Service. (n.d.). Ankh: Symbol of life [Webpage]. Retrieved from https://www.nps.gov/afbg/learn/historyculture/ankh.htm#:~:text=Symbol of Life-,NPS,--or original--cross

3. The Bite Magazine. (2017, March 3). Dilara Findikoglu AW17. The Bite Magazine. Retrieved from https://www.thebitemag.com/2017/03/03/dilara-findikoglu-aw17/

4. Grossman, L. (2009, February 12). The Art of Video Games: From Pac-Man to Mass Effect. TIME. Retrieved from https://content.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1871537,00.html

5. Cossetta, Erin. (2018). Here's What an Upside-Down Cross Really Means. Thought Catalog. https://thoughtcatalog.com/erin-cossetta/2018/04/heres-what-an-upside-down-cross-really-means/#:~:text=Pop culture has reinforced this,as something of evil origin.

6. Refinery29. (2022, January 11). Schiaparelli's Couture Collection Is An Ode To Surrealist Art. Refinery29. https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2022/01/10844367/schiaparelli-couture-spring-2022

7. Mowalola's SS23: The Criminal Return to the Runway. (2023, April 13). Yahoo! Entertainment. https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/mowalolas-ss23-criminal-return-runway-103257499.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYmluZy5jb20v&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAAHwY6l08RC6BWgfpkUpFcHjUrpXyUN5b7CiO7VBAOivNXO-33XEd1NPXiYaN0rrTKw5rf5QD1SYb8K8UfL4BHZSM6kIIMhg06r6QxP_fcad3CGJDrBfwwXF6m2AjXBumP2Jz_x-OqLNCbfD2IRVKbXE2kOF4GLfk5OqoQLebCgh9

As Above - So Below.

Welcome to Esoteric Silhouettes, a brand-new blog dedicated to demystifying occult symbolism in fashion. Here we will explore the intentional and unintentional use of occult symbols, as well as the fascinating religious nods and references found in various fashion collections.

As a chaos magician with a background in fashion design, I have always been fascinated by the use of symbols in fashion. However, it often pains me to witness how sacred symbols are being misinterpreted, vilified, or simply reduced to decorative elements without due understanding or recognition.

Which reminds me of that Buffy the Vampire Slayer episode where they used a magick symbol for their haunted house and accidentally activated it. This lack of awareness is not only dangerous, but it also deeply disrespects the cultures and beliefs from which these symbols originate, and further perpetuates ignorance and misinformation.

Through this blog, I aim to lift the veil on the sometimes hidden magick symbolism used in fashion.

In no particular order, here are some great Fashion x Magick moments:

• Dilara Findikoglu SS18

I absolutely love this show. It has even been “reviewed” by Catholic.org, which is pretty amusing. The show itself is said to portray the unity of various groups such as thinkers, rebels, and religious leaders, mimicking the meaning of the pentagram which represents the unity of elements. So, the fact that this was the closing look makes perfect sense, and I must say, the overall execution of this concept is quite remarkable.

• Rick Owens x Dr Martens

Although commonly referred to as "pentagram boots," the star on the boots is actually a Unicursal Hexagram. This six-pointed star is an important symbol in the mystical system and new religious movement of Thelema, founded by Aleister Crowley in the early 1900s. The symbol represents the concept of "as above, so below," which suggests that the microcosm and macrocosm are reflections of each other. The Unicursal Hexagram can also symbolize the harmonious union of opposites, such as male and female, heaven and earth, or other complementary pairs. A distinct difference between a regular hexagram and a unicursal hexagram is that it can be drawn in one continuous line.

• Courrèges FW 23

This is just speculation on my end, as after reading the show notes, it seems like this application was an unintentional reference. Those round grey mirrors, however, distinctly remind me of scrying mirrors. What are scrying mirrors? They are a type of divination tool used for gaining insight and knowledge by gazing into them. They are typically made of dark, reflective surfaces such as black glass or obsidian.

• Joan, McQueen

As a big fan of Joan of Arc, this particular collection really touches my heart. It captures the essence of her story: she was burned at the stake as a heretic but later canonized as a saint. It's sad that she left the world in this way, but I believe this relates to the ritual use of fire. Fire is often seen as an activator, like when you burn a symbol to release it in hopes of bringing forth a desired outcome. After you burn something, you're left with ashes, but like the phoenix, you can rise again and start a new cycle. McQueen’s interpretation encourages the viewer to reclaim their power. Personally speaking, I'm happy that she received her redemption, but it makes me think about the many other figures who also deserve to be “canonized”, but more on this later (wink wink).

To conclude, taking the time to understand the enigmatic world of occult symbolism in fashion is an act of respect. It allows us to delve deeper into the artistry and meaning woven into the designs that grace the runways, streets, and screens.

So, the next time you see a ⛥pentagram⛥ or an all-seeing eye on a runway, don't be afraid to dig a little deeper and appreciate the deeper meaning behind the symbol or its application.

Thank you for reading. “See” you next time.

As always, I just want to say thanks to my mentors and muse for the ever support.

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Wrapped in this safety net of hers, I’m ready to dive a bit deeper into my process and vision.

When I was in fashion school, I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86x-u-tz0MA&t=601s

In that video it basically talks about taking the genius out of you and applying it externally. The idea here is that you give credit to an external thing/deity/GENIUS for the work so that the ego doesn’t get in the way.

So I started emulating this process, surrounding myself with movies, books, and tv shows on the subject I was working on. I would force myself to plug into the mind of whichever genius I was taking inspiration from and allow them to take over.

As I became more serious with magick, I started to embrace using invocations during my design process. Here I took direct inspiration from Peter Carroll, who’s widely acknowledged for kickstarting the modern chaos magick movement. He also invented the goddess Apophenia, which helps him with achieving scientific inspiration. As such, the goddess Apophenia can be thought of as a personification of scientific discovery itself, and Carroll invokes her as needed.

When I say, MAKING ART IS A RITUAL, I mean it! I approach creative work just like I approach rituals, so before both, I’ll do banishing and any other relevant preliminary rituals ahead of time. The type of invocations I do depends on the theme of the work.

Invocations really do take you to an altered state of mind. This reminds me of Bryan Lewis Saunder’s artwork, where he took different drugs and created self-portraits under their influence. I wouldn’t necessarily say that performing invocations feels exactly like being high-out-of-your-mind, but sometimes their effect is just as strong. This is why I’m so grateful for my mentor and meditation practice, because it keeps me grounded, regardless of how high I get from the invocation.

“Magicians use the most modern tools”

- Genesis Breyer P-orridge

As a Chaos Magician, I’m interested in pushing the boundaries on what can be used as a ritual tool. My medium is digital fashion and for months now I’ve been experimenting with implementing AI into the mix. Genesis Breyer P-orridge said that, “Magicians use the most modern tools”. Which I 100% agree with, but to take it one step further, we could say: A modern magician uses the most contemporary tools… A post-modern magician makes up new tools.

In this art piece, an AI Sigil is embedded in Mary’s Tiphareth (heart space). This sigil as a whole is made up of three separate sigils for Support, Courage, and Unconditional Love. I have had a high success rate with AI Sigils (I have a few theories on why, which I’ll post about later). Sigils seem to be the easiest entry point into exploring any new medium, and AI Amulets, Talismans, and their like, garner even more interesting results. However, magick and love seem to flourish in safe environments, which is why I wanted to give an introduction to my work with the safety net of VIRGIN M-AI-RY.

Special thanks to Virgin Mary, Genesis Breyer P-orridge, Dr Vanessa Sinclair, My Muse, my Mentor and everyone who has read this entire article.

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