Sustainability has been the biggest motto for CPHFW. It’s taken so seriously that for native Danish brands to even be qualified to show their collections at CPHFW they have meet 18 requirements with at least 50% of each collection made of sustainable materials, recycled, up-cycled, or made of deadstock items. Also, each shows set design must consist of zero waste.

Latimmier

A new and thriving brand is always so exciting to see. Latimmier is a new ready-to-wear label by Ervin Latimer. Ervin, who was not only sought out to work for the cult luxury brand Alyx, but has also worked infamous Danish Label Heliot Emil. Latimmier want’s to push the boundaries of masculinity in each of his collections.

In this Autumn/Winter 23 collection he seemed to have just done that. Some looks play with the element of testing how far a man can be considered a man with baring just enough leg and adding garters made for men. Some looks played with shapes, testing traditional tailored suits, and skirts. Latimmier kept the colors direct to focus on the textiles used and how they were used.

A. Roege Hove

A. Roege Hove is a brand that hasn’t been talked about enough this season. Founder, Amalie Røge Hove, a master at Knitwear with devoted years of experimentation to her craft. She has the ability to create pieces perfect for layering. From a consumer’s POV these unique pieces seem to be meant to complete a look and not just to be an addition.

Stamm

With a focus on gender fluidity in Stamm’s creations, Elisabet makes pieces that are fun look at and experiment with. What I love about this collection is the experimentation with what a puffer traditionally looks like and the cohesiveness these puffers have with the accessories added. Stamm came with more of a flexible, sporty0chic collection with consistent colors and fabrics.

OpéraSport

OpéraSport by Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, two women who brought their distinct talents together to create a brand made for the cool girl with sustainability in mind. The interesting element OpéraSport as a brand is that the brand operates on a drop basis with “editions” of seasonless designs with the intention to limit excess.

Exactly a year ago Hermès, the French luxury brand, recently won a trademark dispute against Mason Rothschild, creator of MetaBirkin NFTs, over the use of the name “Birkin” and BIRKIN trade dress. This win is not only a victory for Hermès, but also a testament to the importance of protecting the intellectual property rights of all luxury brands.

The Birkin bag is named after the British singer and actress Jane Birkin and is one of the most recognizable and sought-after luxury handbags in the world. The bags, which can cost upwards of $10,000-$200,000, are known for their exceptional craftsmanship and timeless design.

Mason Rothschild sold his first NFT Birkin named the ‘Baby Birkin’ auctioned off for $23,500, which is more than what the average Birkin is sold for. This didn’t immediatly strike Hermès’ attention, but what did is the MetaBirkin collection that came months after. The MetaBirkin collection sold for over $1 million in the first auction, causing Hermès to then take legal action. The company argued that the unauthorized use of the name “Birkin” by Metabirkin was an infringement of its trademark rights and would lead to confusion among consumers. Additionally arguing that consumers would blindly believe that Rothschild’s project was directly approved by the Hermès brand.

Rothschild argued the NFT collection was not at all inspired by the Hermès Birkin, but by a Gunna song called Baby Birkin. He then equally argued that his use of the BIRKIN name was protected by his First Amendment Rights and did not qualify as Trademark Infringement.

But Unfortunately the Manhattan Federal Jury, did not side with Rothschild, finding him liable for trademark infringement. Rothschild was ordered to pay Hermès $110,000 of revenues from the sales and $23,000 for cybersquatting. Even before a Verdict has been reached many Luxury brands like Chanel, Burberry, and Gucci quickly began filing trademark applications for the current and future use of claimed NFTs. Brands noticed that when MetaBirkins were minted the BIRKIN registration only covered Leather or imitation leather goods.

This ruling is a clear victory for Hermès and may have highlighted the importance of trademarks, but there are still many unanswered questions regarding IP implications with the minting of NFTs.

• The Fashion Code ✨

Paco Rabanne, the Spanish fashion designer, passed away on February 3, 2023, at the age of 88. He was known for his innovative and boundary-pushing designs, which combined a love of avant-garde materials with a futuristic aesthetic. His work helped to change the fashion industry in the 1960s and 1970s, and he was widely regarded as one of the most influential designers of his generation.

Paco Rabanne was born on February 18, 1934, in the Basque country of Spain. He grew up in a family of artists and was exposed to a variety of creative disciplines from an early age. After studying architecture, Rabanne became interested in the world of fashion, and he eventually went to Paris to study at the École des Beaux-Arts. In the early 1960s, Rabanne began to make a name for himself in the fashion world with his unconventional designs. He was known for his use of unconventional materials, such as metal, plastic, and paper, which he combined with more traditional fabrics to create unique and eye-catching pieces. He was also known for his futuristic designs, which often incorporated metallic accents and clean lines. One of Rabanne's most famous collections was the "12 Unwearable Dresses" collection, which was presented in 1966. The collection consisted of twelve dresses made from various materials, including metal, paper, and plastic. The designs were intended to challenge traditional ideas of beauty and femininity, which caused a stir in the fashion world. The collection was widely praised by critics, and it helped to establish Rabanne as one of the most innovative designers of his time.

In addition to his work as a fashion designer, Rabanne was also involved in the world of film and theater. He designed costumes for several productions, including the 1968 film "BARBARELLA" and the 1970 production of "Hair." He was also a frequent collaborator with the fashion photographer Helmut Newton, who often photographed Rabanne's designs. Throughout his career, Rabanne continued to push the boundaries of fashion and design. He was a pioneer of the "ready-to-wear" movement, which aimed to make high-quality fashion more accessible to a wider audience. He was also a vocal advocate for sustainability in the fashion industry, and he was known for his commitment to using eco-friendly materials and production processes. Despite his success, Rabanne was not without his critics. Some people felt that his designs were too avant-garde and that they did not reflect the traditional ideals of beauty and femininity. However, Rabanne was undeterred by such criticism, and he continued to create designs that pushed the boundaries of what was considered acceptable in the fashion world.

Today, Rabanne's legacy continues to be felt in the fashion industry. His innovative designs and use of unconventional materials inspired a generation of designers, and his influence can still be seen in the work of many contemporary designers. His designs made a full circle moment in April of 2022 with the creation of the digital rendition of the 12 Unwearable Dresses as NFT’s. The Paco Rabanne brand created this digital collection as a “nod” to the brands unwearable pieces (referenced by Hypebae). This showed consumers that Paco Rabanne the evolution his intentions are making in the fashion industry by incorporation technology. He will be remembered as a visionary and a trailblazer, who helped to change the face of fashion forever.

The passing of Paco Rabanne marks the loss of one of the most innovative and influential designers of the 20th century. He was a true visionary who pushed the boundaries of what was possible in the world of fashion. He is a designer that creatives can say his work literally continues to inspire designers today, and his legacy will live on for generations to come.

• The Fashion Code ✨

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoDMF2JoJSt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Now the fashion industry went ablaze with Balenciaga's most recent controversy over teddy bears? Yes. Teddy Bears. Well it started with teddy bears but continued with court documents. Balenciaga released what they called a "holiday gift campaign" on their website. The images released consisted of children standing in the center of different rooms with a series of items surrounding them. Some children were holding the teddy bear in  question and some just had the bears in the rooms as a prop. Now these bears were accessorized with bondage gear. Yes. Bondage Gear. Some were seen wearing a fishnet top, a collar with a lock, ankle a wrist restraints, and a blindfold.

Social Media quickly took notice and bashed the industry loved brand for not only placing the inappropriate items in the same setting as children, but also placing blame by attempting to file a $25 million  lawsuit against the production company hired to execute the campaign. Numbers of people all over TikTok and Twitter stated these actions as the brand promoting child abuse. So instead of making a statement in regards to the controversy, Balenciaga replaced the campaign with a new one of an office setting, which seems fine right?

Wrong. A pile of legal documents from the the United States v. Williams case, a supreme court ruling that upheld a federal law that criminalizes advertising and distributing child pornography made a very small appearance in the campaign underneath a Balenciaga handbag.  This lead consumers to concoct theories of the brand engaging to be in agreeance of child abuse.

Even Kim Kardashian, one of Balenciaga's biggest influencers and supporters, came out and made a statement thoroughly disagreeing with Balenciaga's actions. Outraged Influencers on various social media platforms showed their outrage by recording themselves cutting and even burning their Balenciaga purchases.

Balenciaga may have been absent from Paris Couture Fashion Week this past month, for reasons we don’t exactly know. The fashion house has even been pretty silent on social media besides some most recent posts of its Garde-Robe 23 collection in Instagram. This is the house's first post since December 2022. The brands reappearence raises several questions. Will consumers forget about this series of events? Will Balenciaga address the controversy? and if so, How? and Who will be in attendance?

• The Fashion Code ✨

Afterpay plans on launching the “Keys to NYFW” Program. Consumers will be able to purchase designer NFTs or acquire a free Afterpay NFT. Yes you read that right. Free. This Afterpay NFT will unlock the most craved affairs at NYFW. Each Key has been created by 5 notorious New York based brands; Joseph Altuzarra, The Blonds, Jonathan SimKhai, The Blonds, and Kim Shui. The utilities for each key of each designer may range, but all proceeds for the designer NFTs will be donated to Free Arts NYC. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chms6Z1Ooz0/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY%3D

The Designer NFTs, that are only $100, can be purchased at keys.nyfw.com (using the polygon network) and purchased in afterpay installments. All keys are already available to purchase, so snag one while you can and join in the NYFW fun. 

As NFTs are a new tool to acquire true ownership, making them accessible to those who marvel in the art of fashion is equally as important. As we are the consumers. This move from Afterpay is one I truly can’t argue with. This gives consumers and fashion lovers something to look forward to at this year's NYFW.  

On August 21, 2022, Coach celebrated their sold out Coach x Shxpir collection with an AR concept display at the Coach 5th Ave flagship store. The display was a motion graphic visualization composite. ** **

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ChhqPQupJ-m/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

This collection consisted of 1941 editions of a 3D design featuring an archival Coach Icon, the  remixed 1986 Madison Satchel made by Shxpir. Shxpir Huang  is the creator behind FAKE ART and the Perception series. The AR display not only features the bag, but also Shxpir’s new 3D creature, Phakie. 

Coach has been dipping their toes into the Web3 Fashion landscape from their genesis launch consisting of a daily drop of each NFT in December of 2021, their NFT NYC event with the release of the COACH x Shxpir collection, to the most recent AR experience at their NYC flagship store. COACH has carefully rebranded and has been at fashions consumers top watch list for the past two years. The team at COACH definitely knows that they have to be meticulous with how they play their cards when it comes to The Metaverse and digital fashion with so many consumers still opposed to the concept. It seems like the small moves COACH has made is laying groundwork for something big in the future.