“It seems that fashion designers are constantly emerging in Belgium, and it has not stopped.”
“It’s true, but they are not all Belgians. They come from different countries. They just study in Belgium temporarily. I’m a Belgian graduate who started to be famous recently, maybe. I think this is because Belgian schools really pay attention to instilling independent ideas and emphasizing personality into students. Just like Antwerp, it certainly won’t tell you what to do. A school that only says do it again, from beginning to end, over and over again. “
In 2018, fashion editor Olivier zahm had an in-depth dialogue with Glenn Martens, then creative director of Y / project, about the campus career of Antwerp in a special interview with purpose magazine, and talked about the creative practice that was hard to stop at that time.
As he continued to pursue his master’s degree, the latter also went to Paris and was arranged by his mentor to work as an intern in Jean Paul Gaultier, a French fashion house‘ Dream scene! I was hired as a junior designer of Jean Paul Gaultier men’s wear series. To be honest, I’m really lucky. ‘Martens always feels grateful when he recalls the highlights of his resume.
Glenn Martens / Via Purple Magazine
Today, Glenn Martens, who has worked silently in the fashion industry for many years, has deduced the creative mode of “again and again” to the extreme: in just a few weeks, they successively launched Y / Project 2022 autumn and winter men’s clothing, Jean Paul Gaultier guest high-definition series and diesel 2022 autumn and winter physical debut.
His different aesthetic expressions make him known as the breakthrough designer of the year by industry commentators. At the same time, he is also known as “the busiest figure in the fashion industry”. The audience groups of the three brands are different, which ultimately makes this marginal wizard who has not been linked with the mainstream become a hot design superstar.
Jean Paul Gaultier’s dream trip
Jean Paul Gaultier By Glenn Martens/ Via Nss Magazine
As far as Glenn Martens is concerned, Jean Paul gualtier’s advanced customization series has extraordinary significance, which is not only a symbol of his entering the peak of fashion production, but also a unique chapter that has been brewing for 14 years and returning to the beginning of his dream. Therefore, he took JPG’s once infatuated “sailing world” as his foothold, and combined deep-water fantasy and Deconstruction in the name of sea life.
The veil of the series is lifted by the shape of structured long skirt. The wave lines with psychedelic illusion effect are treated with v-symbols in private parts, and the hidden module emphasizes the hip contour. The iconic Marini è res Brittany stripe is reinterpreted by Martens through a knitted suit. The Handmade Coral studs around the dress look sculptural but are actually extremely sharp.
V-shaped symbol emphasizes HIPS / via vogue
Sailor Stripe / Via Vogue
The successive sets of looks are more abstract. The layered and complex Tulle dresses wrap the body of the model like a scroll. The two ribbon corsets flow with the classic blood of JPG, which collides with the faded denim trousers to create a beauty of high and low contradiction.
The second half of the show will push the series release to a climax. Glenn Martens will inlay the design language belonging to Y / project, in which the interior wiring of architecture for the wearer to freely reshape the shape runs through several volume sense pleated Costumes: low-key shaping the body as the beginning and majestic momentum as the end, reflecting the underwater ecological scene full of natural organisms again.
Jean Paul Gaultier / Via Vogue
It seems that we have never seen Jean Paul gualtier like this, and it seems difficult to find such luxury and magnificence from the past shows of Y / project. However, there is no doubt that the guest series written by Glenn Martens added a few memory points to the slightly weak contemporary Gaoding, which once again proved its good strength in front of the eyes of the world. Even Gaultier himself smiled all the way and gave warm applause at the end. (in fact, the previous autumn and winter of Y / Project 2022 has actually been praised as the best series of the brand so far, but this time Gaoding is obviously endorsing himself in the category other than ready-made clothes.)
Jean Paul Gaultier / Via Vogue
Jean Paul Gaultier himself / via Google
‘it’s not about reinventing the brand or trying to bring a new world view. It’s more like a celebration. Gaultier is one of the greatest creators in the history of fashion. I take out what touches my heart and want to tell it again in the language of Y / project, “the focus figure said at his home in Paris.” making high-end fashion is my dream. There is no budget restriction and no sales pressure, which will really affect the design process. As long as I am free to create, To please oneself is also to please the world ‘.
This pleasing is obviously based on the sacrifice of normal rest time. The position of creative director of the two brands and a Gaoding series make him used to being busy seven days a week. Recently, for example, I worked with Gaultier in France on Monday, handled affairs at the headquarters of breganze diesel in Italy and the creative studio in Milan from Tuesday to Thursday, and returned home to Paris on Friday and weekend to start the creation of Y / project.