Just below the walk, under Apollo’s Gate, there is a small beach at the edge of the protected cove. You walk down steps into the Mediterranean and float on your back looking up at the ancient ruin. It is calm and serene until the Blue Star Ferry arrives, the captain swinging the ship 180 degrees, sliding gracefully to just the edge of the dock, a few moments later the waves created flood the walk with a mini-tsunami, drenching items not placed at an appropriate altitude. It’s not the fanciest beach in the Cyclades, but to swim at the foot of the hill while you gaze back at the gate is one of those travel memories that you bottle to keep forever.

The sea the sky the gate keep watch over the harbor. Octopus hang over lines to dry and tenderize as raki is poured into small cups and downed in single gulps. Fried cheese with lemon and anise is served hot in a spitting skillet while you look back at the hill the gate seeing all.