400 km to the east of Cairo, through the Black Desert and into the White, there is a valley of rock formations. The windswept collars of the region are both gorgeous and severe. The nights are black, and the air is crisp. This journey began as an ill-guided attempt at gaining a new perspective. Just before takeoff, a few words of wisdom were passed on—perspective can’t be sought, only achieved. No matter. The trip was already booked. A few packs of cigarettes were purchased, and out into the ...