I'm thrilled to share with you this article that resulted from ‘serendipity’. While wandering through Hibiya library, I stumbled upon this book "銭湯図解", which translates to "Sento Illustrations" in English. I was immediately drawn to the design and how effectively the illustrations depicted the nuances of public baths. I got this thrill that rushed me to find the artist behind it. Her name is Enya Honami (Japanese name is 塩谷 歩波), which means ‘walking the wave’. Indeed, she has started a wave in Japan for people to appreciate more public baths.

Her work had not only received significant media attention but also inspired the 2022 drama 'Yuagari Sketch.' Moreover, major media outlets like Jonetsu Tairiku '情熱大陸’ which is a famous TV broadcaster, had featured stories about her. Admittedly, I felt a bit intimidated by her acclaim, but I was determined to reach out. Sending that email felt like casting a small stone into a vast ocean – I had my doubts about whether she would reply. I was a bit nervous too, wondering what exactly to write. So, in my initial email, I straightforwardly asked if she'd be interested in having one of her article translated into English. I mentioned how much I liked her art and compare it to Steve Jobs's famous remark about the iPhone being so appealing you'd want to ‘lick it’. To my delight, she replied very kindly, expressing her surprise in Japanese: 驚きました, which means 'surprised' in Japanese. You can imagine my excitement – I was beaming and almost wanted to shout out loud, 'Enya replied to meeee :D'.I took her original post from Note and chose for today’s newsletter to showcase five distinct public bath illustrations —and let’s be clear, it was tough picking which ones to feature! I couldn’t include all of her work in a single newsletter, even though each piece is fascinating :D. However, her book showcases diverse range of bathhouses. She initially started the ‘24 Tokyo Baths' series on Twitter, which quickly gained popularity which inspired her book. Her collection is more than just a ‘visual feast’ (as I like to call it); it also highlights the unique characteristics of each bathhouse.

Before I jump to the explanation, I want to share some of her illustration work during years. These are photos taken from her instagram account @enyahonami. I mean come on, aren’t these illustration so gooood? I just love them!

Now, who is Enya Honami?

It's hard to describe someone just based on their works. I do not know Enya personally, but I want to say that there's an aura of gentleness and charm about her that is easy to notice. She is an artist whose canvas is as warm and inviting, and you can feel this in her artwork. Her journey is a tapestry woven from the threads of painting and the comforting embrace of sentos, Japan's traditional public baths.

Originally honing her skills in a design office, Enya's path took an enchanting turn towards the sento world. This shift was not just a change of scenery but a profound transformation of her artistic soul. It led to the creation of her heartwarming book, 'Sento Illustrated,' a visual love letter to these communal havens of warmth and relaxation. Enya Honami's art captures more than just images; it brings the peaceful essence of the bathhouses to life.

Below is photo of Enya while sketching and her cover book too:

‘Sento Illustration’ cover book:

She is known to use isometric architectural style and delicate watercolors. , Enya brings to life not just public baths but a variety of buildings, including restaurants and galleries. The artist's typical workflow involves the following steps (attached photos below):

1. Photo and Interview Process: This initial phase includes taking photographs and conducting interviews, supplemented by precise measurements using a laser device and a tape measure, tools from her days in a design firm, to accurately measure tile widths.

2. Drafting: In this stage, she utilize her design tools to determine the scale and commence drawing. The standard heights for figures in her drawings are around 165cm for women and 170cm for men.

3. Inking: Here, she trace the drafts onto watercolor paper using a waterproof pen. This process is aided by an LED tracing stand, which provides clear illumination for detailed work.

4. Coloring: The final step involves using vivid watercolors. Her focus is on faithfully reproducing the nuances of water surface fluctuations, the shadows within the bathroom, and the authentic colors of the scene.

   

Let’s explore 5 of the public baths a bit of their history.

1. Soshigaya in Setagaya Ward

The illustration captures the women's section of this public bath. This particular sento features five baths, each containing sodium bicarbonate and tourmaline – ingredients renowned for promoting smooth skin. In addition, there's a 10-meter long exercise pool and three distinct types of saunas, with the latter available for a nominal extra fee. While I haven't personally visited this facility, the mere option to swim there is quite appealing. It brings to mind a scene from Natsume Soseki’s 'Botchan', where the protagonist is mocked for swimming in a sento. Unfortunately, this sento has permanently closed its doors.

2. Denjyō-yu Public Bath (殿上湯)

During the Edo period, Nishigahara Village was a tapestry of twenty tiny districts, among which was "Tono no Ue." Situated in Nishigahara, the elevated region of Funayama was notable. Here, the Tokugawa shogunate established a palace, known also as Gotenyama, a favored spot for falconry and dog hunting. Echoing this rich history, a public bath emerged in the area, christened "Denjoyu." This name is unique in Japan, with no other establishment bearing the name"Tonjoyu." Its rarity has made it memorable to our customers and endeared it to locals.

At Denjoyu, they pride themselves on Binchotan charcoal baths, infused with naturally soft water drawn from 135 meters below the surface. This same water, lauded for its quality, is also potable, ensuring a gentle and soothing bathing experience. They even held a piano concert inside the public bath in 2018, this is pretty bizarre in my idea, but I must admit is very creative! I really wanted to visit this public bath, but unfortunately is being permanently closed.

3. Hakusanyu (Koto Ward | Toyosu Station)

Founded in 1955, this public bath has been a haven for relaxation for over 50 years, serving as a cherished gathering spot for local residents. Once, the Toyosu area was home to many public baths, but now, 'Hakusanyu' stands alone. The lukewarm temperature of the water in 'Hakusanyu' is ideal for long soaks, which are beneficial for your body. Both men and women have access to complimentary shampoo, conditioner, and body soap.

Notably, the women's bath is larger than the men's and features stepping stones in the center. These stones provide a unique, possibly refreshing (or maybe slightly painful?) sensation underfoot. In the men's bath, there's a depiction of Mount Fuji, while the women's bath boasts an image of Red Fuji. Both baths offer artificially carbonated water, known for its efficacy in relieving stiff shoulders, back pain, cold sensitivity, paralysis, and fatigue. Additionally, it's reputed for its skin-smoothing benefits.

4. Hasunuma Onsen (Ota Ward)

Reopened on December 16, 2017, this bathhouse embraces the enchanting concept of Taisho romance in its interior design, drawing inspiration from the famous Dogo Onsen. All the baths here are fed by natural hot springs, ensuring an authentic and rejuvenating experience. The facility boasts both natural hot spring baths and water baths, each directly sourced from the spring. Additionally, visitors are encouraged to indulge in the carbonated hot springs, a unique feature that adds to the overall spa experience.

In a bid to create a serene and natural ambiance, the bathhouse ingeniously incorporates floor vibrations to mimic the soothing sounds of nature – from the gentle murmurs of flowing water to the melodious chirping of birds and the subtle rustling of insects. This innovative approach to creating a tranquil environment enhances the bathing experience, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking relaxation and rejuvenation.

5. Fukunoyu (Bunkyo Ward

Fukunoyu, located in Bunkyo Ward, reopened its doors in December 2011 and has since offered a distinctive bathing experience. This bathhouse features an intriguing aspect where the men's and women's bathing areas switch weekly, providing a unique space for all visitors. One of the highlights of this establishment is the powerful jet baths, which have gained popularity among patrons for their relaxing and rejuvenating effects.

The facility offers a temporary luggage storage service, specifically designed for public bath runners. This thoughtful amenity allows visitors to enjoy their bathing experience without the worry of their belongings, making it an inviting and convenient option for those exploring the public baths in the area.

Here are some additional illustrations by Enya Honami. For a more extensive collection, explore her Note article or purchase her book available in Japanese. If you are interested in contacting her, this is the email address info@enyahonami.com and website.

I feel like her illustration bridges the past and present, and inviting us all to cherish these ‘communal sanctuaries’. So, whether you're a longtime bath enthusiast or a curious newcomer, let Enya's art and the warm waters of sento wash over you, leaving you refreshed, rejuvenated, and connected to a timeless Japanese tradition.

Reference used for this article:

https://sentozukai.jp/

https://note.com/enyahonami/n/n2043faea3038

https://www.1010.or.jp/map/

https://sento.or.jp/support.html

https://www.nippon.com/ja/views/b07302/