I celebrated another decade on Planet Earth with an extraordinary adventure. At the center is a trek across the Ugandan jungle to commune with mountain gorillas. Encompassing the trek is a two-week itinerary that left me forever indebted and yearning for more. Here’s how it went:

After counting down for months, I arrive at the airport filled with excitement and anticipation. I'm looking forward to stepping on African soil. A solid itinerary and a few travel rituals help me feel prepared:

1. Digging out my passport days before traveling and leaving it where I can see it. It's the one thing required to fly internationally; I make sure to know where it is.

2. Consuming probiotics. Foods like kimchi, preserved lemons and miso. I’ve never gotten sick while traveling. *knocks on wood*

3. Sleeping as much as possible to neutralize jet lag. Flying coach isn't great for sleeping, but short naps keep me energized. I wear comfy layers and pack a small pillow.

The third ritual is major because we have 18.5 hours of flights and several time zones to get through. I choose to enjoy the long journey as we embark.

After a short flight and layover, followed by an 8-hour flight, we arrive in Amsterdam for a four-hour layover. It’s not much time to explore the city, so I window shop, watch the sunrise and nap until the next flight.

The third and final leg is an 8-hour flight to Kigali. Between naps, I read and catch up on movies, until finally, we descend and land in the city of a thousand hills.

After countless flights, travel is still a miracle. Lifting hundreds of people and thousands of lbs through the sky, floating above the clouds, bending time.

I love taking off on rainy days because I marvel at breaking through clouds to clear skies. And I love landing at night to sparkling city lights.

Set among rolling hills, Rwanda’s sparkles ripple across the landscape.

We deplane, clear customs and grab our bags. Francois is waiting to chauffeur us. We load up and head to the historic Hôtel des Mille Collines.

It’s said that Rwanda is the cleanest country in Africa, and it's a well-deserved boast. The grounds are spotless even though the city is bustling. Trucks, cars, motorcycles share the streets; walkers are on the sidewalks. We spot a superhuman man carrying an armchair on his shoulders...up a hill.

We arrive and exchange numbers with Francois, who promises to show us around.

The Hôtel des Mille Collines was built in 1973 and provided refuge during the Rwandan genocide. I enter with this history in mind, wondering how it shaped what the building has become.

The lobby is fabulously modern with striking regional decor. The staff are immediately welcoming. They offer warm, lemongrass-scented towels for freshening up. Check-in is seamless and before long, we're headed to our room.

Five minutes later, there’s a knock. The staff gifts me a slice of cake for an early birthday celebration! It’s a touching way to kick off festivities.

I devour the cake, shower and lie down with a book - The Souls of Black Folk by W.E.B. Du Bois. I read a few sentences before falling asleep.

We're amused to discover we share the room with a gecko.

Edward, as I call him, never moves while we watch, but is in a different place each morning. I worry we'll step on him, but he keeps to the walls.

Having arrived at night, we’re eager to explore the hotel grounds. Our first stop is the breakfast buffet. I fill my plate from the plentiful options and choose a table facing flower-filled gardens. The waitstaff offers a fragrant “spice tea” that I request every morning and crave for the rest of the trip.

The hotel walls are covered with local artworks; vibrant and bold pieces that command attention. I imagine showcasing a painting at home, but the price tags are above my budget.

Within budget are pedicures and hot stone massages. The pampering relaxes the travel stiffness and energizes us for a walk around Kigali.

The RW&A Clothing Store, known for its custom-made clothing, tops my wishlist. After mapping out the short walk, we join the masses outside.

Walking the intimidatingly steep sidewalks reminds us why Rwanda is the city of a thousand hills. As my thighs burn, I think about the impending trek through the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

(The hilly sidewalks are no comparison, but let’s not get too far ahead...)

Even with the hills, the walk is pleasant and soon, we're at the shop. Colorfully printed fabrics, clothing, accessories and housewares fill the space. Unfortunately, the shop can't meet a two-week turnaround so my wish for custom clothing is abandoned.

Taking a different route back to the hotel, we stumble on a bustling marketplace. Cars, motos and people are everywhere, jostling for space and right-of-way. Navigating the busyness, we realize the hotel is a short walk further and that it has somehow created a peaceful enclave next to a lively shopping area.

That night, sleep comes quickly but we both wake up around 2 am. A return to sleep evades us and we sit on the balcony watching the city twinkle until our eyes get heavy.

Even without a full night's sleep, I wake up ready for adventure. My partner and I disagree about the pace of the day, but after eight years of practice, we recover quickly and find a path forward.

It’s an unplanned day, so I review my touristy wishlist and check with Francois about a guided tour. He's available and proposes an ambitious itinerary. We confirm a pickup time before heading downstairs for brunch.

Ever eager to try something new, I order tree tomato juice. It's not great, but later in the trip, I try tree tomato fruit and sorbet, and both are delicious. We finish our meal and meet Francois in the lobby. Our first stop is the Kigali Genocide Museum.

It’s hard to comprehend that Rwanda's recent history includes genocide. The traces are hard to spot, but the museum tells the sobering story.

The corridors detail a shocking timeline of violence - verbal, mental, physical - instigated and committed by locals and foreigners alike. Horrors bestowed on the children haunt us - their short lives brutally snuffed. With chilling apathy, the world looked on and did too little to help.

I was alive when the genocide happened. Maybe you were too. So many Rwandans I encountered lived through it and carry physical, psychological and spiritual scars.

The museum is a wake-up call and a warning: genocides are happening in our lifetime and if anyone is at risk of genocide, we're all at risk of genocide.

Rwanda is a testament to human resilience and our ability to persevere. Its new national flag represents hope for continued happiness, peace, prosperity and unity. I join Rwanda in hoping that for us all.

Francois expertly navigates traffic toward our next stop, sharing stories and history and answering our questions.

I marvel at the motos. The drivers navigate like they own the roads, their passengers seemingly unbothered by the weaving and spontaneous adjustments. We learn that taxiing by moto is a highly regulated industry with license and equipment requirements. It looks perilous, but is a trusted and affordable travel option.

We pass several foreign-backed housing developments. We learn that in some instances, locals are displaced as land is literally purchased from under them and developed into residences they can’t afford. I've seen this happen in my neighborhood and I'm sad that it happens across borders too.

We stop at the Niyo Arts Center and my mood lifts. A cheerful painted walkway leads to a space filled with art of varied sizes, mediums and styles. Behind the gallery, we see artists crafting under the open sky.

Some pieces fit my budget and I collect an intriguing painting that now hangs on my wall. It’s the first piece I've ever purchased from an art gallery.

Next, we visit the craft shops. Francois advises us: Barter. Start at least 60-70 percent lower than the price given. You can get 50 percent off if you’re good.

We’re not good.

It’s intense. Several vendors share the room, shouting and waving products; others wait expectantly for us to get closer. Items - bags, clothing, art, toys, sculptures, hats, you name it - are stacked from floor to ceiling with narrow walkways leading from stall to stall. We’re pressured, but we practice the barter and buy souvenirs.

Our family is invested and following our journey through text, pictures and video. The souvenirs are a physical piece of Rwanda to share with them.

As we head to our final stop - a scenic overlook to watch the sunset - we're caught in a traffic jam. A car is stalled and as the motos use their dexterity and speed to squeeze forward, cars can't advance. We sit for some time, watching daylight slip away.

Eventually, it starts to rain and the motos dash for cover. A path opens for the cars. We postpone the overlook and arrive at the hotel, worn and ready for bed.

Edward is there to welcome us back.

The journey continues as we travel to Uganda and prepare for the ultimate adventure - gorilla trekking. Find out how the trek goes in Part Two.

I celebrated another decade on Planet Earth with an extraordinary adventure. At the center is a trek across the Ugandan jungle to commune with mountain gorillas. Encompassing the trek is a two-week itinerary that left me forever indebted and yearning for more. Here’s how it went:

After counting down for months, I arrive at the airport filled with excitement and anticipation. I'm looking forward to stepping on African soil. A solid itinerary and a few travel rituals help me feel prepared:

1. Digging out my passport days before traveling and leaving it where I can see it. It's the one thing required to fly internationally; I make sure to know where it is.

2. Consuming probiotics. Foods like kimchi, preserved lemons and miso. I’ve never gotten sick while traveling. *knocks on wood*

3. Sleeping as much as possible to neutralize jet lag. Flying coach isn't great for sleeping, but short naps keep me energized. I wear comfy layers and pack a small pillow.

The third ritual is major because we have 18.5 hours of flights and several time zones to get through. I choose to enjoy the long journey as we embark.

After a short flight and layover, followed by an 8-hour flight, we arrive in Amsterdam for a four-hour layover. It’s not much time to explore the city, so I window shop, watch the sunrise and nap until the next flight.

The third and final leg is an 8-hour flight to Kigali. Between naps, I read and catch up on movies, until finally, we descend and land in the city of a thousand hills.

After countless flights, travel is still a miracle. Lifting hundreds of people and thousands of lbs through the sky, floating above the clouds, bending time.

I love taking off on rainy days because I marvel at breaking through clouds to clear skies. And I love landing at night to sparkling city lights.

Set among rolling hills, Rwanda’s sparkles ripple across the landscape.

We deplane, clear customs and grab our bags. Francois is waiting to chauffeur us. We load up and head to the historic Hôtel des Mille Collines.

It’s said that Rwanda is the cleanest country in Africa, and it's a well-deserved boast. The grounds are spotless even though the city is bustling. Trucks, cars, motorcycles share the streets; walkers are on the sidewalks. We spot a superhuman man carrying an armchair on his shoulders...up a hill.

We arrive and exchange numbers with Francois, who promises to show us around.

The Hôtel des Mille Collines was built in 1973 and provided refuge during the Rwandan genocide. I enter with this history in mind, wondering how it shaped what the building has become.

The lobby is fabulously modern with striking regional decor. The staff are immediately welcoming. They offer warm, lemongrass-scented towels for freshening up. Check-in is seamless and before long, we're headed to our room.

Five minutes later, there’s a knock. The staff gifts me a slice of cake for an early birthday celebration! It’s a touching way to kick off festivities.

I devour the cake, shower and lie down with a book - The Souls of Black Folk by W.E.B. Du Bois. I read a few sentences before falling asleep.

We're amused to discover we share the room with a gecko.

Edward, as I call him, never moves while we watch, but is in a different place each morning. I worry we'll step on him, but he keeps to the walls.

Having arrived at night, we’re eager to explore the hotel grounds. Our first stop is the breakfast buffet. I fill my plate from the plentiful options and choose a table facing flower-filled gardens. The waitstaff offers a fragrant “spice tea” that I request every morning and crave for the rest of the trip.

The hotel walls are covered with local artworks; vibrant and bold pieces that command attention. I imagine showcasing a painting at home, but the price tags are above my budget.

Within budget are pedicures and hot stone massages. The pampering relaxes the travel stiffness and energizes us for a walk around Kigali.

The RW&A Clothing Store, known for its custom-made clothing, tops my wishlist. After mapping out the short walk, we join the masses outside.

Walking the intimidatingly steep sidewalks reminds us why Rwanda is the city of a thousand hills. As my thighs burn, I think about the impending trek through the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

(The hilly sidewalks are no comparison, but let’s not get too far ahead...)

Even with the hills, the walk is pleasant and soon, we're at the shop. Colorfully printed fabrics, clothing, accessories and housewares fill the space. Unfortunately, the shop can't meet a two-week turnaround so my wish for custom clothing is abandoned.

Taking a different route back to the hotel, we stumble on a bustling marketplace. Cars, motos and people are everywhere, jostling for space and right-of-way. Navigating the busyness, we realize the hotel is a short walk further and that it has somehow created a peaceful enclave next to a lively shopping area.

That night, sleep comes quickly but we both wake up around 2 am. A return to sleep evades us and we sit on the balcony watching the city twinkle until our eyes get heavy.

Even without a full night's sleep, I wake up ready for adventure. My partner and I disagree about the pace of the day, but after eight years of practice, we recover quickly and find a path forward.

It’s an unplanned day, so I review my touristy wishlist and check with Francois about a guided tour. He's available and proposes an ambitious itinerary. We confirm a pickup time before heading downstairs for brunch.

Ever eager to try something new, I order tree tomato juice. It's not great, but later in the trip, I try tree tomato fruit and sorbet, and both are delicious. We finish our meal and meet Francois in the lobby. Our first stop is the Kigali Genocide Museum.

It’s hard to comprehend that Rwanda's recent history includes genocide. The traces are hard to spot, but the museum tells the sobering story.

The corridors detail a shocking timeline of violence - verbal, mental, physical - instigated and committed by locals and foreigners alike. Horrors bestowed on the children haunt us - their short lives brutally snuffed. With chilling apathy, the world looked on and did too little to help.

I was alive when the genocide happened. Maybe you were too. So many Rwandans I encountered lived through it and carry physical, psychological and spiritual scars.

The museum is a wake-up call and a warning: genocides are happening in our lifetime and if anyone is at risk of genocide, we're all at risk of genocide.

Rwanda is a testament to human resilience and our ability to persevere. Its new national flag represents hope for continued happiness, peace, prosperity and unity. I join Rwanda in hoping that for us all.

Francois expertly navigates traffic toward our next stop, sharing stories and history and answering our questions.

I marvel at the motos. The drivers navigate like they own the roads, their passengers seemingly unbothered by the weaving and spontaneous adjustments. We learn that taxiing by moto is a highly regulated industry with license and equipment requirements. It looks perilous, but is a trusted and affordable travel option.

We pass several foreign-backed housing developments. We learn that in some instances, locals are displaced as land is literally purchased from under them and developed into residences they can’t afford. I've seen this happen in my neighborhood and I'm sad that it happens across borders too.

We stop at the Niyo Arts Center and my mood lifts. A cheerful painted walkway leads to a space filled with art of varied sizes, mediums and styles. Behind the gallery, we see artists crafting under the open sky.

Some pieces fit my budget and I collect an intriguing painting that now hangs on my wall. It’s the first piece I've ever purchased from an art gallery.

Next, we visit the craft shops. Francois advises us: Barter. Start at least 60-70 percent lower than the price given. You can get 50 percent off if you’re good.

We’re not good.

It’s intense. Several vendors share the room, shouting and waving products; others wait expectantly for us to get closer. Items - bags, clothing, art, toys, sculptures, hats, you name it - are stacked from floor to ceiling with narrow walkways leading from stall to stall. We’re pressured, but we practice the barter and buy souvenirs.

Our family is invested and following our journey through text, pictures and video. The souvenirs are a physical piece of Rwanda to share with them.

As we head to our final stop - a scenic overlook to watch the sunset - we're caught in a traffic jam. A car is stalled and as the motos use their dexterity and speed to squeeze forward, cars can't advance. We sit for some time, watching daylight slip away.

Eventually, it starts to rain and the motos dash for cover. A path opens for the cars. We postpone the overlook and arrive at the hotel, worn and ready for bed.

Edward is there to welcome us back.

The journey continues as we travel to Uganda and prepare for the ultimate adventure - gorilla trekking. Find out how the trek goes in Part Two.